Chak Phra by Sea on Koh Phangan: "Buddha boats," village rowing races, and pole battles over the water

On November 4, Thong Sala Bay and the shore beside Wat Rat Charoen kicked off one of Koh Phangan's liveliest local traditions — Chak Phra by Sea (ประเพณีชักพระทางทะเล, Chak Phra Thang Thale).

Literally, Chak Phra means "pulling the Buddha." According to Buddhist tradition, the Buddha ascended to Tavatimsa Heaven to preach to his mother and returned to the human world after the end of Buddhist Lent (Ok Phansa), where devotees welcomed him with a grand procession.

For the procession, temples build Reua Phra (เรือพระ) — literally "Buddha boats," ornate carved pavilions adorned with mythical Nagas and birds that carry a statue of the Buddha. The photo below shows a land-based Reua Phra on wheels by Thong Sala Pier, the kind pulled along town streets. Across southern Thailand — and especially here on Koh Phangan — temples also decorate real boats that head out to sea and rock at anchor in the bay.

An island community celebration. Sea Chak Phra has been celebrated on Koh Phangan since at least the 1930s. Boats once gathered across several bays — Ban Tai Beach, Wok Tum, and Thong Sala — before the festivities centered around Thong Sala Pier.

From the moment you step onto the shore, you can feel that this festival belongs to the island's own communities. Unlike the big mainland regatta in Surat Thani where 20- to 30-oar long boats race, Koh Phangan's heats bring out men's and women's crews from local villages and temples, while families and supporters in team jerseys pack the beachfront.

What happens on the water. Several very different contests unfold across the bay:

• "Buddha boat" decoration contest. Temple communities compete not on speed, but on the artistry and decoration of their ceremonial boats.
• Village rowing races. Boats go head-to-head along the bay toward the bamboo finish tower. Historically, the island's program has also featured boat tug-of-war and the classic game "Mute Bow, Blind Stern" (หัวใบ้ท้ายบอด), where the bow paddler sees the course but cannot speak while the stern paddler steers blindfolded.

• Pole battles over the water. Between rowing heats, the crowd gathers by the shallows around a slick pole mounted over the sea for Muay Thale (sea boxing). Both adults and kids climb up to knock each other off into the water amid cheers and laughter. (While old village traditions also mention duck-catching swims, coconut-husking contests, and folk song exchanges, day one by the water was all about the rowing sprints and the pole battles.)

Come catch Day 2 today! November 4 was the opening day of the festival, and today, November 5, is Day 2. Come down to the Thong Sala waterfront by the pier and Wat Rat Charoen to see the races and games in person.

Our full photo and video reportage from Day 1 (all 192 photos and 46 videos) is live on the site — head over to browse the full gallery, spot yourself, your friends, and neighbors in the shots, save your favorites, and share them!