Phantip Market

Thong Sala's main food market. It is open every day but comes alive towards evening, around five: rows of stalls in the yard and a covered hall with long shared tables next to them. Thai food (pad thai, som tam, curries, skewers, grilled fish, roti, mango sticky rice) sits alongside sushi, pizza, Israeli and Indian stalls. Fruit shakes everywhere.

Dinner here costs roughly 40–150 baht. It is busiest from seven to nine, and most stalls pack up by ten. Some stalls open by day too, with far less choice. The shops around the yard also sell electronics: phones, cables, power banks.

• Pay in cash, small notes are easiest
• To sit down without hunting for a table, come before seven
• On Saturdays the Walking Street market runs a couple of hundred metres away: both are easy to do in one evening